Retinol vs. Tretinoin vs. Retinal: Which Retinoid Is Right for You?

“Retinoid” is the umbrella term for ingredients derived from vitamin A. They are among the best-studied ingredients in skincare, with evidence that they can soften fine lines, even out pigmentation and help with acne.¹ But the names on the label matter, because the different forms are not equally strong.

How retinoids work

Skin cells respond to retinoic acid. Every other retinoid has to be converted into retinoic acid in the skin before it does anything. The more conversion steps there are, the gentler — and slower — the ingredient tends to be:

• Retinyl esters (such as retinyl palmitate) → retinol → retinal → retinoic acid. Mildest.
• Retinol → retinal → retinoic acid.
• Retinal (retinaldehyde) → retinoic acid. One step away.
• Tretinoin is retinoic acid. No conversion needed.

Tretinoin: the prescription gold standard

Tretinoin is the retinoid with the most clinical evidence for photoageing: fine lines, rough texture and sun spots.¹ It is a prescription medicine in most countries and is also used to treat acne.⁴ It works fastest, but it is also the most likely to cause dryness, peeling, redness and stinging, especially in the first weeks — sometimes called “retinisation”.

Retinol: the over-the-counter workhorse

Retinol is found in many serums and night creams. Because it must be converted twice, it is gentler than tretinoin, and studies suggest that, given enough time, it can produce visible improvements too.² Concentrations usually range from 0.1% to 1%. Results tend to take three to six months.

Retinal: the middle ground

Retinal (retinaldehyde) is one step closer to retinoic acid, so it tends to act faster than retinol while usually being better tolerated than tretinoin. It is a good option if retinol has not done much for you and you do not want a prescription.

The best retinoid is the one you can use consistently without irritating your skin.

How to choose

• New to retinoids, or sensitive skin: start with a low-strength retinol (0.1–0.3%) or a retinyl ester.
• Used retinol for months without irritation: consider a higher-strength retinol or retinal.
• Significant sun damage or acne: talk to a doctor or dermatologist about tretinoin.³

How to start without the peel

1. Use a pea-sized amount for your whole face, at night, on dry skin.
2. Begin two or three nights a week and increase slowly.
3. Moisturise — you can apply moisturiser before your retinoid to buffer it.
4. Avoid using it on the same night as strong acids or scrubs.
5. Wear broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.

Read our full guide to using retinol after 40.

Who should avoid retinoids

Do not use retinoids if you are pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding. Take care if you have eczema or rosacea, and ask a doctor first.