Peptides in Skincare: Promising Science or Clever Marketing?
Peptides are sold as “messengers” that tell skin to make more collagen. The science is interesting, but much thinner than for retinoids. Here is what we know.
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Key takeaways
- Peptides are short chains of amino acids; some act as signals in the skin in laboratory studies.
- Clinical evidence exists for a few peptides, such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, but studies are small and often funded by manufacturers.
- Peptides are gentle and can be a good option for people who cannot tolerate retinoids.
- They are not a substitute for sunscreen, and they work far less dramatically than adverts suggest.
Peptides are short chains of amino acids — the building blocks of proteins such as collagen and elastin. In skincare, they are marketed as ingredients that “signal” the skin to repair itself. Is it true?
The main types
- Signal peptides, such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (often sold as Matrixyl), which in lab studies stimulate collagen production.1
- Carrier peptides, such as copper peptides, which deliver trace minerals involved in wound healing.
- Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, such as acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), marketed as “Botox in a jar”. They are meant to reduce muscle contraction, but the effect on the skin surface is very modest.
- Enzyme-inhibiting peptides, which may slow the breakdown of collagen.
What the studies show
A 12-week trial in women with photoaged skin found that a moisturiser containing palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 improved fine lines and wrinkles compared with the same moisturiser without it.2 Other peptides have shown benefits in small studies. However, reviews point out that most trials are small, short and often industry-sponsored, and that it is unclear how well many peptides penetrate the skin.3
Peptides are a reasonable “nice to have”. Retinoids and sunscreen remain the “must-haves”.
Who might benefit
- People with sensitive skin who cannot tolerate retinoids.
- People who want a gentle morning active (peptides are stable in daylight).
- Those who already use the basics and want to add something.
How to use them
Peptides are usually found in serums and moisturisers. They can be used morning or night and combine well with most ingredients. Some advice suggests avoiding using copper peptides at the same time as strong acids or vitamin C, as they may reduce each other’s effect.
What to watch out for
- “Botox in a jar” claims — no cream relaxes muscles like an injection.
- Very high prices for unproven blends.
If you want ingredients with stronger evidence, read vitamin C serums and niacinamide.
Sources
- Schagen SK. Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics. 2017;4(2):16.
- Robinson LR, et al. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2005;27(3):155–160.
- Gorouhi F, Maibach HI. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2009;31(5):327–345.